FAQs

The main parts of a bicycle wheel include the hub, spokes, nipples, rim, and tire. The hub is the central part and houses the axle & bearings. The spokes connect the hub to the rim and help support the wheel. Nipples are threaded onto the spokes and hold them in place at the rim. The rim is the outer circular part that holds the tire, and the tire is the rubber part that makes contact with the ground.

Choosing the right size depends on your bike type and riding style. Common sizes include 26”, 27.5” (650B), and 29” for mountain bikes, and 700C for road bikes. Check your bike frame for compatibility and consider your riding preferences, as larger wheels roll over obstacles more easily, while smaller wheels can be more maneuverable.

Clincher tires use a separate inner tube and are the most common type. Tubular tires have the inner tube sewn inside the tire and are glued to a special rim. Tubeless tires don't require an inner tube and create a seal with the rim, allowing for lower pressure and fewer punctures.

Bicycle rims are typically made from aluminum or carbon fiber. Aluminum rims are strong, affordable, and reliable. Carbon fiber rims are lighter and offer better performance but are more expensive and can be less durable.

Spoke length is measured from the inside of the bend (where the spoke hooks into the hub) to the end of the threads. You can use a spoke calculator, inputting hub dimensions, rim dimensions, and the lacing pattern to get the correct spoke length.

Essential tools for wheel building include a spoke wrench, truing stand, spoke tension meter, nipple driver, spoke holder, dishing tool, and a spoke ruler or caliper. Optional tools include a wheel dishing gauge, nipple lubricants, and a spoke threader.

Radial lacing involves spokes going straight from the hub to the rim without crossing other spokes, resulting in a lighter and stiffer wheel, usually used on front wheels. Cross lacing (e.g., 2-cross, 3-cross) involves spokes crossing others, providing more strength and durability, common for rear and disc brake wheels.

Use a spoke calculator, entering hub flange diameter, spoke hole diameter, rim ERD (Effective Rim Diameter), number of spokes, and lacing pattern. The calculator provides the correct spoke length for both drive and non-drive sides.

The basic steps include:

• Select the right components (hub, spokes, nipples, rim).
• Calculate spoke length.
• Lace the spokes in the desired pattern.
• Tension the spokes gradually, ensuring even tension.
• True the wheel (adjust lateral and radial trueness).
• Dish the wheel (center it between the dropouts).
• Finalize spoke tension and check for evenness.

Start with the key spoke on the drive side, place it in the hub and rim, then lace the trailing spokes, crossing over other spokes according to your pattern. Repeat for the non-drive side. Follow the lacing pattern consistently for all spokes.

 Check your wheels regularly, especially before long rides. Inspect them monthly for signs of damage, loose spokes, and proper tension. Truing and tensioning checks every few months or as needed, depending on riding conditions and intensity.

Signs include visible cracks in the rim, loose or broken spokes, wobbles, unusual noises, difficulty keeping the wheel true, and rough or loose bearings in the hub.

Remove the damaged spoke, replace it with a new one of the same length, thread the nipple onto the spoke, tension it to match surrounding spokes, and true the wheel.

Place the wheel in a truing stand, identify the wobbles, and adjust spoke tension accordingly. Tighten spokes opposite the wobble, and check radial trueness by adjusting spokes around high and low spots.

Remove the wheel from the bike, disassemble it by removing the tire, tube, and rim tape, then de-lace the spokes from the hub. Install the new hub, re-lace the wheel, tension, true, and dish it.

Rim profiles affect aerodynamics, weight, and strength. Deep-section rims (40mm+) improve aerodynamics and speed, suitable for flat terrain and racing. Shallow rims (20-30mm) are lighter and more maneuverable, ideal for climbing and mixed terrain. Mid-section rims offer a balance of both.

Wider rims provide better tire support, allowing for lower tire pressures, improved traction, and comfort. They also enhance aerodynamics with wider tires and provide more stability and control, especially on rough terrain.

Higher spoke counts offer more strength and durability, making them suitable for touring, heavy riders, and rough conditions. Lower spoke counts reduce weight and aerodynamic drag, improving performance for racing and smooth terrain.

Aero spokes have a bladed or elliptical shape, reducing wind resistance and improving aerodynamics. They enhance speed and efficiency, particularly noticeable at higher speeds and in time trials or triathlons.

Carbon wheels are lighter and stiffer, improving acceleration, climbing, and handling. They also offer better aerodynamics due to their design, enhancing speed. Carbon wheels absorb road vibrations better, providing a smoother ride.

For road biking, look for lightweight, aero wheels with a balance of strength and stiffness. Carbon rims (30-50mm depth) with tubeless compatibility and high-quality hubs are ideal. Popular choices include Shimano Dura-Ace, Zipp, and Mavic wheels.

Mountain bike wheels should be strong and durable, with wider rims (25-30mm internal width) to support wider tires. Tubeless compatibility is essential. Choose wheels with sturdy hubs and reliable bearings. DT Swiss, Stan's NoTubes, and Industry Nine are popular options.

Cyclocross wheels need to be lightweight yet strong, with wider rims (25mm+) for better tire support. Tubeless compatibility is crucial for lower pressure and better traction. Durable hubs and reliable spokes are also important. Brands like Easton, HED, and Hunt offer suitable options.

Touring and bikepacking wheels should prioritize durability and strength, with higher spoke counts (32 or 36) and robust rims. Look for wide rims (25-30mm internal width) for better tire support and comfort. Reliable hubs with good seals and easy maintenance are essential.

Commuting wheels should be reliable and low-maintenance. Aluminum rims with a moderate spoke count (28-32) offer a balance of strength and weight. Tubeless compatibility is a plus. Durable hubs and puncture-resistant tires are also important. Brands like Fulcrum, DT Swiss, and Shimano offer good options.

Proper spoke tension is crucial for wheel strength and durability. Even tension prevents stress concentrations, reducing the risk of spoke breakage and rim damage. Correct tension also ensures the wheel remains true and responsive, enhancing overall performance.

A spoke calculator is an online tool or software that calculates the correct spoke length for a wheel build. Input the hub flange diameter, spoke hole diameter, rim ERD, number of spokes, and lacing pattern. The calculator provides the correct spoke lengths for both drive and non-drive sides.

Different lacing patterns affect wheel strength, stiffness, and weight. Radial lacing is lightweight and stiff, suitable for front wheels without disc brakes. Cross lacing (2-cross, 3-cross) provides better strength and durability, ideal for rear wheels and disc brakes. More crosses increase strength but add weight.

Brass nipples are more durable and resistant to corrosion, making them suitable for all-weather conditions and heavier riders. Aluminum nipples are lighter, reducing overall wheel weight, but are less durable and can corrode more easily. Choose based on riding conditions and weight priorities.

Thicker spokes (14-gauge) are stronger and more durable, suitable for heavy riders and rough conditions. Thinner spokes (15 or 16-gauge) are lighter and more aerodynamic, improving performance for racing and smooth terrain. Double-butted or bladed spokes offer a balance of strength and weight savings.